Throughout time, cities have played a vital role in the development of civilizations. Almost everywhere, the heritage of the past -palaces, places of worship, as well as simple dwellings- testifies to urban planning that respected environment, traditional life styles, to innovative architecture and to abundant artistic wealth. Today, the role of the cities is just as vital. But the relationship between cities and its inhabitants, unchanged for centuries, has undergone a radical transformation.

As a consequence of this transformation very few cities have survived to bear testimony to their past. The city of Srinagar is one of those cities that, even in the present state of decay and decadence, represents through its architecture and other creative forms, its glorious heritage.

This capital city of Kashmir also stands out as the most physical manifestation of the turbulent history of the region. Founded by Ashoka in 250 BC near present day Pandrethan, the capital was shifted to the present site, around Hariparbat hillock by Paravasena 11 in 6th century. The city was named Parvarpura.

Archeological records reveal that Pandrethan continued to be a flourishing habitat for a long time. The ancient temple, at present under the administrative supervision of archeological survey of India was constructed around 910 AD during the reign of King Partha(910-931AD).The temple is a classic example of Kashmiri temple architecture, Kashmiri style of temple architecture is vastly different from temples of the subcontinent. This architecture depicts an enormous Greek and Roman characteristic both in its style and form. Certainly the mode of worship in these temples would be distinctly at variance with worship in other temples of the same faith.

Pandrethan has also remained a centre of Buddhism even after this great religion was cleansed from the valley. In 1913 ASI excavation yielded, besides several Buddhist sculptures, the remains of two dilapidated stupas and the quadrangular rubble built enclosure of a monastery. ASI assigned the remains to 8th century AD. The most significant finds at Pandrethan are the sculpture of Mahamaya(Mother of Buddha) along with her sisters. Kashmiri scholars claim that the ear ornaments worn by her have close resemblance with the Dejharu which is worn by married kashmiri Pandit women.

This city was destroyed in 960 AD by a devastating fire during the reign of Abhimanyu. There are many missing threads in rise and fall of Pandrethan. Abhimanyu belonged to Gonda dynasty which patronized shaivism. Their rule saw end of Buddhism as also the demise of Pandrethan. Till then Buddhism emerged from persecution at intervals when a great and just King would extend benign patronage to this religion and doing so was a matter of pride for the King.

Buddhist past of Kashmir has, to say the least, received scanty attention. It does not now find a credible mention when the past history is commented upon. Kashmir has served as the fountain head of Buddhism for more than thousand years. It is universally accepted that Kashmir has left an indelible mark on religious and cultural landscape of Tibet, Central Asia and China.

Harwan, on the out skirts of Srinagar, evolved into a great centre of Buddhism. The official records of Archeological Survey of India, the present keepers of this archeological site, state that the epoch making 4th Buddhist council was held during the reign of Kanishka at Harwan.(Inventory of Monuments and Sites of National importance,vol.1 part 1).However this subject has remained confined to the world of narrow research. This council laid the foundation of Mahayana Buddhism that became the guiding philosophy of main stream Buddhist thought. This council was attended by great scholars like Vasumitra and Nagarjuna. Vasumitra is said to have presided over this council. Hieun Tsang, who traveled through Kashmir in 7th century records about this council that the King issued summons to all the learned doctors of his empire. They came in such numbers that severe test was imposed and only 499 arhats were selected.

Further excavation at Harwan has been stopped after temporary shift of Srinagar circle of Archeological Survey of India to Jammu. They have yet to return to their assigned location. However, thanks to ASI, the site is secured from encroachments and vandalism. Srinagar shall become focus of world attention as and when Harwan excavations progress under expert supervision.

Hieun Tsang stayed in Srinagar at Jainder vihara which , he mentions as a flourishing centre of Buddhism. This vihara was destroyed by King Kshemagupt in 10th century. Present day Ontabhawan( Amrita Bhawan) and Zakura, are part of the glorious Buddhist heritage of Kashmir.

300 years from 9th till 11th century have been exciting times for Srinagar. These centuries produced poets, saints and other creative men. Bilhan, the great poet and grammarian was born in 11th century at Khonmoh, a village in pandrethan. Though his intellectual accomplishments surfaced later in South India, where he migrated, his pandrethan ancestry is a matter of established historical record.

Kashmiris excelled in architectural skills that are depicted in archeological monuments as well as the historical records available about the buildings. As rightly pointed out by Walter Lawrence, “Even now Kashmiris are the most expert craftsmen of the east; and it is not difficult to believe that the same people, who at present excel all other Orientals as weavers, gunsmiths and as calligraphers, must once have been the most eminent of Indian architects”

The selection of present site for the capital was guided by its strategic location and proximity to the River Jehlum. The River and Anchar Lake acted as natural boundaries on north and west, with Dal Lake limiting any expansion to the east. The Hariparbat and Takht-i-Sulaiman served as the natural defining land marks. Thus the city was confined to the right bank of the River Jehlum extending up to Hariparbat till14 the century.

14th century saw advent of Islam and establishment of Muslim rule. The Muslim rule gave a new character to the city, both to its physical and cultural form.

Srinagar became the epicenter of the socio-cultural and religious transformation of the region. Then onwards, for another 500years the city also got a new name, Shehri-Kashmir. Coincidentally the city has the same latitude as great Islamic cities of Baghdad, Damascus and Fez, Morroco.The city saw an influx of missionaries, Poets, artists and craftsmen from great centers of Islamic art, Persia and Central Asia. They established their base mostly near the seat of power, in the city. They also took influences from the Kashmir saints, poets and philosophers, the Reshis of Kashmir. The interaction and synthesis of men of religion with varying cultural back ground gave rise to a belief system of tolerance, accommodation, moderation and strict adherence to the principles of the great religion of Islam. This process of assimilation gave birth to a unique religious and secular architecture, represented by the Khanqah, mosque and vernacular houses. Though the city would be burnt, destroyed and rebuilt many times, yet in the end Srinagar survives as one of the representative intact cities of pre modern vernacular and timber architecture.